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our cover shoot unfold on the roof of Somerset House, it was difficult not to marvel at the view: Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament and London’s finest designer clothing set against this wondrous backdrop. So as London 2012 transfixes the nation, The Review reflects on the impact this city has had on fashion as we celebrate our very own design team GB.
A piece for every London postcode
Church's Crystal Brogues £350Read More
Representing Mayfair’s golden mile, AKA the one and only Savile Row, step forward these boyish-meets-bling brogues from heritage brand Church’s. A perfect marriage of the Row’s suited-and-booted style with girly glitz, sport these dapper dazzlers with woollen tights and tailored shorts à la Alexa Chung.Shop Church's
Burberry Beauty Lip Cover £23Read More
Burberry Beauty burst onto the scene in 2010 promising every London It-girl the chance to achieve Cara Delevingne’s eyebrows and Jourdan Dunn’s cheekbones. But it was this dewy shade gracing Rosie Huntington-Whiteley’s famous pout that had us hooked. Two years later, and no Knightsbridge-bound model’s lips would be seen without it.Shop Burberry Beauty
Temperley London Lace Gown £3,750Read More
You don’t need to live in a Pall Mall palace to pull off full length lace, but as the Duchess of Cambridge demonstrates, it helps. With its nipped-in waist, plunging neckline and fishtail train, this jaw dropping Temperley gown (sported by the Duchess herself) is a sure-fire way to achieve a blue-blooded evening look.Shop Temperley London
Anya Hindmarch Pimlico Tote £995Read More
Picture catwalk queens Claudia Schiffer or Elle Macpherson on their west London school run – skinny jeans, glossy blow-dry, cashmere knit – and you’ve got the essence of Anya Hindmarch’s oh-so-elegant tasselled tote. This understated dove grey leather bag will never date (much like the original Supers, cue jealous sigh).Shop Anya Hindmarch
Markus Lupfer OMG Jumper £265Read More
Deep in the depths of darkest Dalston, the chicest East End hipsters are sporting Markus Lupfer’s Pop Art-style shriek across their chests. From Burberry’s owl to Kenzo’s lion, motif knits are in for the season ahead and no one does it better than king-of-cool Lupfer.Shop Markus Lupfer
theNicholas Kirkwood interviewLondon’s forward-thinking footwear designer talks to Harriet Hawksworth about his pet hates and design heroes.
Did you always know you wanted to be a shoe designer?
I studied fine art at Central Saint Martins Collge of Art and Design and then went to intern for the milliner Philip Treacy. When I worked in the shop, ladies would come in with complete outfits looking for a hat to match and I’d help them. It was around 2000 and there was some really incredible ready-to-wear, such as Alexander McQueen and Hussein Chalayan. These designers were really pushing the boundaries, but other than Manolo Blahnik, I noticed there weren’t any groundbreaking shoe designers and realised that’s what I wanted to do.
How did you launch your brand?
After completing a making course at Cordwainers College, I took my first collection to Paris. I didn’t have a factory at that point and had made every shoe completely by hand. I didn’t sell a single pair - the shoes were not easy to wear! But the collection got a lot of press attention. I was inspired by sculptors such as Anish Kapoor and there was a lot of bright colour on printed leather. I think it would sell if it had been made now but things were more conservative then.
How would you describe the DNA of your brand?
I really pushed the whole idea of the shoe boot before it became mainstream, and part of my brand DNA is that I cut a shoe very high on the foot. I like to mix organic lines with very architectural shapes. I find that design becomes interesting when two opposing aesthetics come together.
Is there anyone you’d love to see in your shoes?
I’d love to do shoes for Cate Blanchett. She’s got a really interesting, modern look. She has so much femininity but so much strength at the same time. It’s the balance I always try to strike.
I hate seeing girls
struggling along the street in
high heels, trying to make it to
the front door of the nightclub
What are the new trends happening in shoe design?
A couple of years ago things were getting more and more exaggerated, so much height. It almost got to the point where the shoes were unwearable, with models constantly falling over on the catwalk. Over the last couple of years, shoes are coming down in height, a refined silhouette is emerging with more of a late ‘90s feeling – we’ll be seeing pointy designs with no platform. Interestingly, shapes are becoming sleeker but it’s the fabric and material that’s becoming more adventurous.
What is the most memorable collection you’ve made?
I did a project for the ['80s pop artist] Keith Haring foundation last year, a couture collection that’s now travelling around the world. I designed nine shoes and it was creatively satisfying, and nice being free from commercial restrictions.
Is there much pressure on you to be commercially minded?
I’d like to say no, but realistically as a designer you’re always going to want things to sell. I usually start by designing exactly what I want and then going back and refining. Say, for example, if it’s 200 euros for a buckle, it’s probably going to make the overall shoe too expensive. It’s important to have those heroes within a collection though.
How do you make a high shoe comfortable?
I think it’s about knowing your customer. Some girls will prioritise aesthetics over comfort and some shoes are literally cab-to-red-carpet affairs. There are things I do to make the shoe more comfortable though, I’m not a torturer! I add a wider fit to the super high heels - this makes sense because if there’s added pressure on the foot it naturally wants to spread.
Who are your shoe designer heroes?
Shoe design was so exciting during the period of Roger Vivier, André Perugia and Salvatore Ferragamo. They were really pushing technology, pushing the look. The 1930s was a game-changing time in terms of shoe design. There was a lot of experimentation.
How do you feel about designing men’s shoes?
Well, I’ve just started my first collection and the way I’m approaching it is that I’m designing shoes for the boyfriend of my female customer. If everything goes well, I’m looking to show the collection in Paris in October. I don’t want to design show-off shoes for men, I want the collection to be subtle and I don’t want to stray too far from tradition.
What are your pet hates when it comes to shoes?
I hate seeing girls struggling along the street in high heels, trying to make it to the front door of the nightclub. Don’t just wear sneakers all day and then put on heels once a week and expect to look confident, it takes practice to look elegant in high heels but it’s worth it.
The trend report: womenswear
From left to right: Chloé, Etro, Donna Karan, MCQ Alexander McQueen, Michael Kors, Yves Saint Laurent. Images courtesy of Catwalking.com.
Ladies, paint the town red for the season ahead
If Summer fashion was flavoured with the saccharine sweet – pastels, lace and frills aplenty – prepare to turn to the dark side this Autumn. Gone are pretty pastel shades and in their place come the bold primaries. Cue bright red – the colour of the season and a classic show-stopper, whether it’s sitting pretty alongside a neutral palette à la Chloé, or taking centre stage in Donna Karan’s silhouette-skimming dresses and Michael Kors’ Thirties-inspired glamour. Not a colour for all, admittedly, in which case more subtle berry colours (think fruits of the forest) may float your boat. Once you’ve developed a taste for the red stuff, then indulge in the season’s key mood for dark romance, evoked in McQ Alexander McQueen’s richly textured brocades and achingly sharp silhouettes, Etro’s plush and gothic velvet and Yves Saint Laurent’s ultra-luxe, seriously chic leather.Shop New Season
The trend report: menswear
From left to right: Balmain, Etro, Paul Smith, Etro, Z Zegna. Images courtesy of Catwalking.com.
Gentlemen, prepare for take-off this Autumn/Winter
While your shorts and espadrilles may have failed to get a look in during the (lack of) British Summer, the men’s catwalks are fully prepared for the inevitable dark Winter ahead. Enter stage left the oh-so-desirable shearling jacket, hero product of the season, as seen on the catwalk at Paul Smith, Vivienne Westwood and many, many more. Warm, hard-wearing and with just the necessary wartime air force flavour, wear yours over a roll neck (another AW12 fashion hit – be warned) for a truly retro feel or with a pair of red trousers – the colour of the season for men.
As for the requisite suiting trend, three’s the magic number. Whether for a special occasion or the every day, jackets and trousers just aren't complete unless worn with a waistcoat this season. You could even take Z Zegna's lead and pair with a pair of leather gloves (optional).Shop New Season
The season’s new kids have come to our e-block
Del Rey Days
Much like its namesake, the singer Lana Del Rey, Mulberry’s latest addition to the fold couples instant success with lasting appeal. We particularly love the deep plum version, perfect for adding a touch of warmth to any ensemble. Fellow overpackers will be thrilled with the easy-access pocket at the front, which prevents embarrassing bag struggles, and there’s easily enough room for an emergency pair of flats.Shop Mulberry
Pave the Way
Affordable diamonds? Surely not. The woman famous for creating the equally improbable luxury friendship bracelet has done it again. Step forward Diamonds by Monica Vinader, an utterly covetable collection of stackable pavé rings and delicate pendants in an array of colours and styles. Fans of the aforementioned Fiji friendship bracelet will be pleased to see this style re-emerge complete with a diamond clasp. We love.Shop Monica Vinader
A recent culinary fetish seems to be influencing the new season’s influx of accessories, as suddenly it seems all hues are named after foods. Aubergine, berry, plum and grape, deep reds are ruling right now. From Givenchy’s tomato-coloured Antigona bag to McQueen’s skull scarf in brooding burgundy, we want them all. Delicious.Shop berry shades
A Purrrfect Pair
We knew our feline fashion crush was far from over when Charlotte Olympia’s new collection landed at Harrods. Most outfits benefit from the addition of a skyscraper leopard court, and who can resist the charms of Miss Olympia’s Kitty Flats? If they’re good enough for Alexa Chung, then they’re good enough for us.Shop Charlotte Olympia
Photographer:Shop the shoot
MAREK PUC AND FRASER TYRIE
CHRISTOPHER SWEENEY @
DWN USING BUMBLE & BUMBLE
ALEX BABSKY @ FRANK
FARRAH HOLT @ UNION
Shot on location at:
Somerset House www.somersethouse.org.uk
Want an Olympiad body, you say? On your marks, get set....
Tone Back Time
The Olympic Games are fast approaching so this month The Review beauty team is all about the athlete-inspired physique. We’re kicking off our quest for lithe, toned limbs with the Functionalab Body Toning Beauty Pack. This kit takes a ‘beauty from the inside out’ approach and includes firming gel along with nutritional supplements – three a day will keep the cellulite away.Shop Functionalab Body Toning Pack
Come on admit it, we all wish we had abs like Ennis. If, like us, you’ve been shamed into reviewing your own gym activity (or lack of it) after viewing our GB hopeful’s washboard stomach, you will be pleased to learn that there is another way. Slendertone Abs promises toned and stronger abs in just four weeks, and wearing the belt for 20 minutes is equivalent to 120 sit ups! You can’t argue with stats like that…Shop Slendertone Abs
God of all Tans
It's common knowledge that a tan can hide a multitude of sins but this Summer our self-tanner is working even harder to create the illusion of body perfection. Estée Lauder Bronze Goddess Radiant Perfection Firming Crème has a buildable formula that will gradually develop a golden glow, but that's not all: the delicious smelling formula will also tighten and tone skin with every application. Now that's what we call multi-tasking.Shop Estée Lauder Firming Body Crème
Albeit nothing to do with DJ Norman Cook, this quirkily-named collection by Bliss really does what it says on the tin (or tub). Start with the Fat Girl Scrub to promote circulation and get rid of dead skin, and then follow up with Fat Girl Slim: this caffeine-laced body cream will trim all your pesky problem areas, leaving skin youthful and toned. It’s like the gym in a jar.Shop Bliss
Harrods' Chief Merchant talks London style and Olympic highlights
My role with
London designers is as part of the BFC Vogue Fashion Fund panel. We judge the finalists and the winner gets £250,000, which can allow them to take their business to the next level - past winners include Erdem and Christopher Kane (pictured right). Part of my role is to be there and give designers advice on cash
flow and payroll or on the collection itself. There is often a desire to have more in their collection, whereas I always say when you’re starting out, less is more. Once you have an established point of difference, it’s easier to be more eccentric. But when you’re starting out, it’s really important to put together a collection that is actually going to sell.
Best foot forward
Accessories are something young Brits haven’t really done in earnest, but thanks to brands such as Burberry and Mulberry, they’re creating iconic pieces. I’m excited about shoes: Nicholas Kirkwood's designs are works of art and Charlotte Olympia's (right) are the sexiest shoes alive, whilst Rupert Sanderson's are divine too.
A Sporting Chance
Olympic fever has hit London and we're in a frenzy. I was asked to carry the Olympic torch (embarrassing). My son couldn’t believe I’m going to wear white nylon and said, “Mum, does Alaïa even make tracksuits?” I'll also watch the cycle race when it passes Harrods, with interest. Will make a change to the Boris bikes I manoeuvre round every morning.
The Ultimate Heaven Scent
If only computer screens were scratch and sniff...
Finally, finally, finally - Creed fragrances have landed exclusively online at harrods.com. A one time official supplier to Queen Victoria and Napoleon no less, this historic London-born perfume house boasts over 200 handmade scents across its 250 year history.
Need more proof of Creed’s powerhouse potential? Then check out Les Royales Exclusives, the family-owned brand’s regally-themed range, which features a fruity cocktail of ingredients including Sicilian lemon, grapefruit, pink berries and pear bitter. Delish.
Our guide to everything you need for the season ahead – out Friday 17th August