Menswear Autumn/Winter 2014 shows
Always set to be a sartorial sight for sore eyes, the Menswear Autumn/Winter 2014 shows kicked off in London in January with a bang.
Alexander McQueen, never a brand to disappoint, offered military-inspired tailoring and Scottish tartan in a moody, monochrome palette while heritage brand, Burberry Prorsum delivered the perfect winter line-up; shearling coats, sheepskin jackets, oversized Macs and relaxed wool suiting made their way down the runway. “One of the highlights of the London Collections: Men’s calendar,” said Harrods’ Fashion Director, Jason Broderick of the show.
Paul Smith’s AW14 presentation, meanwhile, was hidden among rolls of Persian carpets, their prints echoed onto scarves and sneakers. Harrods’ Jason Broderick thought “the quirky combination of denim and classic tailoring was fantastic."
In Milan, Etro looked to the British countryside for inspiration this season. However, the three-piece slimline suits that stormed the catwalk were executed with all the skill of Italian master tailors. Loved for its print, the brand’s signature paisley was cast aside in the favour of top-to-toe windowpane checks. At Moncler Gamme Bleu, Graphic Argyle motifs came boldly printed on everything from boxy, down jackets to knickerbockers, while Belstaff delved deep into its archives and redefined the brand’s classics for the new season. Roadmaster and Trialmaster jackets were presented alongside the new four-pocket Sportmaster, and were styled with shearling gloves and balaclavas.
A capital known for its impeccable style, Paris opened its doors to some seriously style-savvy looks this season. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Picciolo started on a high note with an haute couture-grade collection for Valentino. However, it seems the look of luxury is now a little more laidback as bespoke jeans, monogrammed sneakers, sweater-and-scarf combos and loose fit cashmere coats hit the catwalk. Riccardo Tisci was another designer who raised his game, but his AW14 collection for Givenchy was centred at the basketball court. Elongated jackets, long and loose trousers worn with sneakers and circular printed sweatshirts graced the catwalk for the perfect mix of smart and sporty. Closing the shows on Sunday night was Hedi Slimane and his Teddy Boy-inspired collection for Saint Laurent. A slight deviation from the punk-driven looks of previous seasons, collared models hit the catwalk with a fine selection of coats, from houndstooth to herringbone, draped on their shoulders.