London Collections: Men SS16 - The Round-Up
While for many it may feel a touch early to be considering what we will be wearing come Spring/Summer 2016, but for menswear fans the world over, LC:M provided a stellar glimpse into the fashion-future, as designers turned explorers, roaming far and wide for inspiration, pushing the boundaries of men’s attire to new heights.
At Christopher Kane, strong, sharp-shouldered silhouettes ruled, with a crackled tweeds, layered tees over shirting, in galactic shades of red, midnight and brightest blues, with a pop of palma violet. Meanwhile at Alexander McQueen things took a distinctly nautical turn, as double-breasted captain coats in inked hues, studded with gold buttons, compass and anchor motifs emblazoned on soft rippling jackets, cropped trousers and below-the-knee shorts, roamed the runway. And if exploring new sartorial territories was the underlying theme of the menswear shows, at Burberry Prorsum, Christopher Bailey did the impossible and reinvented the trench yet again for a new season, this time with elements of borrowed-from-the-girls lace collaring. No surprises then that the collection entitled ‘Strait-Laced’, featured heavily on lace elements, but played on its rebellious side, loosening up the silhouettes with cashmere joggers, jackets and light overcoats - totally wearable, with the oh-so covetable Barrow bag being the accessory of the season.
Roving into new yet familiar territory, at Hardy Amies creative director Mehmet Ali harked back to the brand’s heritage by way of the future. The original costume designs Hardy Amies created for the iconic Stanley Kubrick movie 2001: A Space Odyssey, were the source-point for the Spring/Summer 2016 collection which revealed space-tech-clothing, with lightweight fabrics, transparency effects playing with negative spaces, juxtaposing the more classic cut of suit with parachute-nylon layering. Back to earth with a bump, Belstaff took on a more rugged terrain in the harsh extremes of the sand-plains of the Sahara, demonstrating durable dusty-hued combinations of leather flack jackets, wax field jackets with crackled map prints, camo fatigues, desert boots, parkas topping neat cotton Henleys. With two feet firmly not on the ground, for another season, Paul Smith put their Travel Suit through its paces, turning the runway into a speedway, as aero-nastics came courtesy of extreme suited-up bikers flying through the air in sartorial ease.
At Gieves & Hawkes, a more casual approach to formal dressing was the order of the day, as the classic suit and tie was usurped in favour of softer tailored jackets sitting in confident colours atop bright tees, while at Turnbull and Asser the inspiration was time and the evolution of British style, challenging the rules of traditional tailoring, re-introducing the Edwardian removable collar, contrasting textures on suits and lapels all while working in Aztec, African and Japanese prints into the quintessential British aesthetic.
And, if rather rebellious, pushing-the-boundaries-of-suiting vibes were felt running through the collections, none more so in than in the mega-watt shades at Richard James who enjoyed a rumble in the jungle with vivid brights and fluoro-florals.
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