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The Tailoring Boutique

A cornerstone of every man’s wardrobe, suiting is a fundamental yet sometimes daunting matter. All the more reason to approach your tailoring collection and care regime with confidence. Consider this an education in elegance.

Black and white image of tailor marking out material
Black and white image of tailor marking out material
Man in white tuxedo with dark scarf
Tuxedos

 

While formal dress codes have evolved with changing times, classic tuxedos remain a cornerstone of elevated partywear. For black- or white-tie invitations, they’re obligatory. Here, a conservative palette is most apt – exemplified by TOM FORD, where satin-trimmed sets and statement dinner jackets speak only of debonair. Polo Ralph Lauren offers a subtler take that’s equal parts handsome and effortless. For a final flourish? A cummerbund and bow tie, naturally.

 

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Black and white image of tailor marking out material
Black and white image of tailor marking out material
Man in navy slim fit suit sitting on wooden table
Slim-Fit Suits

 

Almost guaranteed to flatter, slim-fit suits are most versatile. While tapered fits were once taboo in the workplace, today, closer-cut shoulders, shorter jackets and a little sock on show are as customary in business as in pleasure. Careerists and socialites alike, look to Ermenegildo Zegna, where blazers and trousers benefit from couture-inspired craft. For a peppier ensemble, Burberry’s British charm sets the bar.

 

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Black and white image of tailor marking out material
Black and white image of tailor marking out material
Video of man in a double breasted chequered suit
Double-Breasted Suits

 

Aptly named for its overlapping lapels, the double-breasted suit has long signalled exuberance and leisure. Its aptitude for business, however, is relatively new. For that, you can thank 1980s Wall Street – from here, the style’s self-assured charm took hold across American boardrooms, and the rest is history. You’ll now find double-breasted suits for every occasion and taste, from the ornate care of Dolce & Gabbana to the traditional à la Richard James.

Black and white image of tailor marking out material
Black and white image of tailor marking out material
Man in grey classic fit suit leaning against a wall
Classic-Fit Suits

 

Trust in tradition. Less snug than its slim-fit counterpart, the classic fit is liberal – not oversized – across chest and waist, proving failsafe in office, familial and celebratory settings. Here, style is whispered, not shouted. At Ermenegildo Zegna, a muted Prince of Wales check; at Brioni, dusty pink woollens, sourced sustainably. Elsewhere, Canali cuts Italian-made classics with fine twill for distinguished formalwear.

 

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The Details

  • Sleeve detail of suit

    Buttons

    Buttons

    On the sleeve, you’ll find a row of three or four buttons. Today, these are decorative for the most part, however there was a time when cuffs that opened – surgeon cuffs – signalled quality. Buttons that overlap are known as ‘kissing’ buttons, while those with gaps between are ‘non-kissing’. Men of a slimmer build often prefer the latter.

  • Lapel detail of suit

    Lapel

    Lapel

    Add ‘notch’ and ‘peaked’ to your sartorial vernacular. Notch lapels – named for their V-shaped step – are more prevalent in tailoring, distinguishing them from their peaked counterpart. Here, the tip of the lapel points upwards, away from the collar. Peaked lapels are often reserved for dinner jackets or more formal styles, due to the skill involved in their making.

  • Vent detail of suit

    Vent

    Vent

    Extending from the hem upwards, vents are included in jackets to minimise restriction. Single-vent suits – typically attributed to American tailoring – are kinder on larger seats. British- and Italian-favoured double vents, meanwhile, are more resistant to bunching. Tuxedos will often be cut without a vent to create an unbroken silhouette.

  • Pocket detail of suit

    Pocket

    Pocket

    The welted or ‘jetted’ pocket supports a streamlined silhouette, ideal for evening occasions. With this style, you’ll see only a slit and its reinforced edge (a welt). Flap pockets, which fold fabric over the pocket seam, are traditionally office fare – but black-tie rules are loosening, so you may start to see these in more formal settings.

Classic Brands

  • Brioni
  • Canali
  • Giorgio Armani
Video of man in suit

Cleaning
Premium suits are usually rich in wool, cashmere or silk, therefore dry cleaning is essential. Less is more, however. Find a service that uses minimal chemicals to prevent lasting fabric damage. At home, regular airing will reduce the need to dry clean regularly. A steamer can prove invaluable for on-the-go maintenance – hot vapour loosens fibres to release minor blotches and unwanted scents.

Storage
Treat your suit with respect, and it will last you years – even decades. To store jackets, use only wooden hangers and ensure each is well spaced for ventilation. As for trousers, fold them over a fabric trouser bar or hang them from the hem on a felt-clamp hanger to loosen any creasing. Importantly, if you are travelling, carry your suit in a garment bag to prevent damage.

Suit on mannequin being measured up
In-StoreMade To Measure

We provide made to measure, made to order and bespoke tailoring services from the likes of Berluti, Prada, Richard James and more. Our dedicated team in Menswear on the Second Floor will be happy to assist you.

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Tailoring equipment laid on tailoring workshop
SERVICESThe Tailors

Whatever your purchase, our in-house tailoring team are on-hand to provide any alterations you may require. Fitted as you try them on, your items will then be adjusted, ready for prompt collection within 10 days.

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