The Harrods Guide to Women’s Dress Codes for Black-Tie Events

Words by Sophia Miller

With events seeming to get more casual by the year, the black-tie dress code can be a welcome invitation to go all out. But what exactly does it mean? Do you need to wear a gown? Is colour acceptable? And what should you absolutely avoid? Let Harrods – and some of fashion’s leading eveningwear experts – be your guide to the black-tie clothing rules.

Less formal than white tie, but still reserved for some of the most elegant occasions in the social calendar – think galas, weddings and formal dinners – black-tie attire originates in 19th-century Britain. Though a dark-coloured dinner jacket has been customary attire for men ever since, the womenswear black-tie equivalent allows more license for creativity, as long as you bring out your finery.

“These kinds of glamorous occasions inspire me because they’re a celebration of life’s most meaningful moments,” says designer Monique Lhuillier. “There’s something truly special about the energy in the room when people dress up. A gown isn’t just about fashion, it’s about how it makes someone feel: elegant, empowered and unforgettable.”

What is the black-tie dress code for women?

In short, the black-tie dress code for women calls for a long (often floor-length) dress or gown, fashioned in an evening-appropriate material such as silk or chiffon – though the precise level of formality can depend on the event you’re attending. “Today, while the essence of elegance remains, there’s more freedom to express your personal style when it comes to black-tie dressing,” says Monique Lhuillier. “Hemlines can often be shorter and there’s room for modern, relaxed cuts or unexpected details.” When in doubt, ask your host – they should be able to advise whether a slightly shorter ankle-length or cocktail dress would be appropriate. Anything above the knee, though, will likely steer you into too-casual territory.

What not to wear to a black-tie event

As for what not to wear? Remember that attire for black-tie events necessitates formal eveningwear. “Avoid casual fabrics like cotton and jersey, or accessories that feel too ‘daytime’,” advises Lhuillier. “Above all, choose a piece that makes you feel confident, beautiful, and ready to celebrate – it should feel like a true extension of you.” Eveningwear designer Maria Lucia Hohan agrees: “Anything too trendy or revealing is also best avoided,” she recommends.

n/a — Taller Marmo dress, Bvlgari bag, Suzanne Kalan ring

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How do I approach black-tie dressing in a modern way?

“Black tie calls for formality, but it doesn’t mean sacrificing personality,” says Maria Lucia Hohan. “The Cassiopeia, Sureya or Taylor gowns from our Harrods capsule collection are especially well-suited to black tie,” she recommends. “They’re feminine but bold, thanks to sculpted bodices, sleek lines and floor-sweeping hems.”

Elsewhere, gowns with ruffles, feathers and dramatic cape detailing offer a fashion-forward take on black-tie dressing – as do unexpected prints and saturated hues as seen at Carolina Herrera and Mary Katrantzou. “Look for rich textures like silk faille, velvet or tulle, and don’t shy away from colour,” says Monique Lhuillier. “Deep jewel tones, romantic pastels or even a bold print can be just as striking as black.”

n/a — Self-Portrait gown, Bvlgari bag, Roger Vivier shoes, Sophie Bille Brahe earrings

What shoes and accessories should I choose for black tie?

When it comes to accessories, Maria Lucia Hohan recommends a refined palette of gold, silver or monochrome tones. “Minimalist yet impactful accessories work best,” she says. “Perhaps a pair of chandelier earrings or a statement cuff – they’ll add a touch of drama while letting the gown shine.” Monique Lhuillier agrees that the right choice of shoes and jewellery can transform a black-tie look. “The key is balance,” the designer says. “If your dress is highly detailed, go for simpler accessories. If the silhouette is sleek and minimal, you can play with more daring jewellery or a standout shoe.”

When it comes to hair and make-up, the same rules apply – the experts at Carolina Herrera suggest that a red lip can be the ideal finishing touch to more understated looks. Equally, elegant up-do hairstyles are a popular option, says Hohan: “Pulled-back hair will keep focus on the silhouette of your dress,” she explains.

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More Questions Answered

The dress code for a black-tie wedding will likely be akin to any other black-tie event, with glamorous floor-length gowns de rigueur. However, as with any wedding, tones of white, ivory or cream should be avoided to not compete with the bride.

No, hats and fascinators are not usually worn at black-tie events. Millinery is most often the preserve of daytime dress codes and occasions like Royal Ascot – and, given that black-tie events typically take place after nightfall, headwear is not customary. Consider it all the more reason to experiment with jewellery and accessories.

Yes, sequins and metallics are entirely acceptable attire for black-tie events – especially if the event is being held in a particularly glamorous location or at a celebratory time of year (such as Christmas party season). If in doubt, choose a more subtly sparkly garment or opt for a simple shape to counteract the dazzling effect.

While some more relaxed hosts will accept midi dresses or less formal cocktail dresses, it can be better to err on the side of caution – and tradition – by choosing a floor-length gown for a black-tie event.

No, black-tie is not exactly the same as formal or evening attire – though the dress codes may have some overlap. Formal or evening attire is a more general dress code, for which a cocktail dress or jumpsuit would suffice. Black-tie, on the other hand, is one of the most elegant dress codes, and asks for a full-length dress or gown.

There is no rule to say you have wear black to a black-tie event – it’s a common misconception that the name of the dress code denotes its palette. Unless otherwise specified by your host, all colours and prints (including black) are welcome at black-tie occasions.

White-tie attire is one step more formal than black-tie, most often required for ceremonial events such as royal weddings and state dinners. While men are asked to don a tailcoat for white-tie events, for women, white-tie and black-tie dress codes are similar – a full-length evening gown is the ideal choice for both.

It depends on the formality of the event and of your host. Sometimes, a particularly elegant midi-length cocktail dress is appropriate for a black-tie event. However, a full-length gown remains the safest, and most, traditional choice for this formal dress code.

We offer an extraordinary selection of elegant black-tie brands at harrods.com and in Evening & Occasion on the First Floor in-store, including Carolina Herrera, Jenny Packham, Maria Lucia Hohan, Monique Lhuillier, Safiyaa, Zuhair Murad and more.