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The Brands to Know Now

Feature: Long Read
Words by ABIGAIL GURNEY-READ

A change is as good as a rest, it’s said – and nothing refreshes us for the new season like a wardrobe update. Established favourites meet agenda-setting newcomers in fashion director Lydia King’s brands to know for Autumn/Winter 2020.

Simone Rocha

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Oh, to be a fly on the wall of Simone Rocha’s studio! With her every collection, the Dublin-born designer embarks upon a voyage that navigates literature, fine art and the history of costume – a journey in couture and craftsmanship, as is Rocha’s wont. Her AW20 show notes were an ode to existentialism – “procession, baptism; birth, life and loss” – while references to the John Millington Synge play, Riders to the Sea, translated into folkloric nuances and traditional Aran knitwear. Come for the cotton-voile skirts and corseted tulle dresses; stay for a lesson in the Irish Literary Renaissance.

Shop Simone Rocha

Lydia says:

“Porcelain cotton shirts, heritage Aran knits, and the deftest of embroideries; Simone Rocha’s ethereal yet impactful collection reads like poetry. Look to pearly accessories for a romantic inflection.”

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Oh, to be a fly on the wall of Simone Rocha’s studio! With her every collection, the Dublin-born designer embarks upon a voyage that navigates literature, fine art and the history of costume – a journey in couture and craftsmanship, as is Rocha’s wont. Her AW20 show notes were an ode to existentialism – “procession, baptism; birth, life and loss” – while references to the John Millington Synge play, Riders to the Sea, translated into folkloric nuances and traditional Aran knitwear. Come for the cotton-voile skirts and corseted tulle dresses; stay for a lesson in the Irish Literary Renaissance.

Shop Simone Rocha

Mark Kenly Domino Tan

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You may not be aware of Mark Kenly Domino Tan – but, if you know, you know… A highlight of Copenhagen Fashion Week and Danish design, Tan flies predominantly under the radar on the international stage. Which, rest assured, is most likely how the designer would wish it. His is a quiet modesty that translates exquisitely into his namesake label’s aesthetic. Delve a little deeper, and the pay-off is extraordinary: a faultlessly executed wardrobe that is the epitome of sophistication.

Shop Mark Kenly Domino Tan

Lydia says:

“At the intersection between contemporary Scandi minimalism and traditional tailoring, you’ll find Mark Kenly Domino Tan. Front and centre are his immaculate pattern-cutting and impeccable fabrics.”

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You may not be aware of Mark Kenly Domino Tan – but, if you know, you know… A highlight of Copenhagen Fashion Week and Danish design, Tan flies predominantly under the radar on the international stage. Which, rest assured, is most likely how the designer would wish it. His is a quiet modesty that translates exquisitely into his namesake label’s aesthetic. Delve a little deeper, and the pay-off is extraordinary: a faultlessly executed wardrobe that is the epitome of sophistication.

Shop Mark Kenly Domino Tan

A.W.A.K.E. Mode

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Name a designer who can cut a bias like Natalia Alaverdian. We’ll wait. To say an A.W.A.K.E. Mode wardrobe is flattering alone, however, would be to do a disservice to the mastery of its creative director. Alaverdian’s perspective is far-reaching and fastidious. The former fashion director pulls inspiration from the history books and her familial heritage to conjure extraordinary pieces that demand a double-take. Pleats here, ruching there; expect great things from Alaverdian’s covetable collection of separates and silhouette-skimming dresses, which range in palette from classic neutrals to eye-catching coquelicot.

Shop A.W.A.K.E. Mode

Lydia says:

“Natalia Alaverdian can do no wrong in my eyes. As a former fashion director of Harper’s Bazaar Russia, her design intuition is seasoned by an editorial nous, putting her in a league of her own.”

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Name a designer who can cut a bias like Natalia Alaverdian. We’ll wait. To say an A.W.A.K.E. Mode wardrobe is flattering alone, however, would be to do a disservice to the mastery of its creative director. Alaverdian’s perspective is far-reaching and fastidious. The former fashion director pulls inspiration from the history books and her familial heritage to conjure extraordinary pieces that demand a double-take. Pleats here, ruching there; expect great things from Alaverdian’s covetable collection of separates and silhouette-skimming dresses, which range in palette from classic neutrals to eye-catching coquelicot.

Shop A.W.A.K.E. Mode

Matériel

Matériel

The luxury line of Fashion House Materia – one of Georgia’s oldest apparel and textile manufacturers, established in 1949 – Matériel’s mission is to champion the country’s home-grown talent, providing residencies and opportunities for up-and-coming designers. Matériel by name, material by nature; fluid silks and buttery leathers are mainstays of the Tbilisi brand’s every collection, worked into a mood of directional minimalism that demands attention. Coming soon!

Shop Matériel

Lydia says:

“Matériel is synonymous with Tbilisi’s emerging fashion scene. Softly draped silks and structured leather separates are just two of the strings to designers Aleksandre Akhalkatsishvili and Lado Bokuchava’s bow.”

Matériel

The luxury line of Fashion House Materia – one of Georgia’s oldest apparel and textile manufacturers, established in 1949 – Matériel’s mission is to champion the country’s home-grown talent, providing residencies and opportunities for up-and-coming designers. Matériel by name, material by nature; fluid silks and buttery leathers are mainstays of the Tbilisi brand’s every collection, worked into a mood of directional minimalism that demands attention. Coming soon!

Shop Matériel
Shop All New to Harrods
  • PhotographerGeorgia Devey Smith
  • Style EditorJack Reid
  • ModelFaye Damen @ Elite
  • Hair and Make-upTerri Capon
  • ProductionKim Reddish
MW Brands To Know

Men’s Brands to Know Now

New, now, noteworthy; meet the brands that head of menswear Simon Longland is championing for Autumn/Winter 2020.

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