What the Parisians don’t know about style isn’t worth knowing – and the same can be said of PFW designers. The birthplace of haute couture, and the grande dame of the Fashion Month calendar, Paris is lauded as the international authority on all-things chic. Here’s looking at five names leading the way.
Plus, for the latest from all four fashion capitals, follow #HarrodsAtTheShows.
What: Craft at its finest.
Why: Jonathan Anderson is a stickler for detail. Loewe Creative Director and chief juror of the prestigious Loewe Craft Prize – an award that celebrates artisanal talent across multiple disciplines, the Northern Irish designer has made the pursuit front-and-centre of his own practice. Don’t be surprised if you clock silhouettes and techniques that you haven’t seen anywhere else.
Where To Wear: Your weekly ceramics class. Exercise caution when in proximity of the lathe; your fringed midi will thank you for it.
Who: Paco Rabanne
What: Chainmail and paillettes by the bucketload.
Why: In 1966, maverick designer Paco Rabanne unveiled his seminal 'Manifesto' collection to the world. Extraordinary creations – sculpted in hammered metal, aluminium and chainmail – became the go-to partywear of Françoise Hardy and Audrey Hepburn. Fast forward to AW19 and, under the direction of Julien Dossena, the apple hadn’t fallen far from the tree. One dress – a crystal-encrusted lattice sported by Lena Hardt – took over 144 hours to construct.
Where To Wear: Soho’s answer to Studio ’54. Dancing is optional, but encouraged.
Who: Stella McCartney
What: Ethical elegance.
Why: Announced as Sustainability Advisor to LVMH earlier this year, Stella McCartney is a pioneer of mindful fashion. The designer’s efforts in environmental activism and conservation go hand-in-hand with her long-standing commitment to animal welfare; in fact, McCartney’s are among the finest examples of vegan leather and faux fur. From her signature Falabella bag to the limited-edition All Together Now capsule, these are styles to buy now and wear forever.
Where To Wear: Working lunches, Sunday brunches and beyond! Ethical design deserves air time.
What: Styles to make an entrance.
Why: Olivier Rousteing is in the business of confidence. Emanating and encouraging it. For AW19, the Creative Director of Balmain took his muse to a fierce new territory – reversioning his hallmark cinched waistlines and poke-your-eye-out shoulders in PVC, and perforating them with a constellation of punkish studs. Meanwhile, to our delight, tweed jackets and matching mini skirts made a welcome return.
Where To Wear: Girls' night out. Coordinate your looks to serve serious #squadgoals.
What: Left Bank bohemia.
Why: "Nature. Love. Commitment." So read the show notes for Chloé AW19. Set in the sombre aftermath of Karl Lagerfeld’s death – the design doyen himself helmed Chloé in the 1970s, nostalgic references were everywhere in Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s poignant collection. For many (the Creative Director included), this is the epoch that defined the Chloé aesthetic. Seventies kick flares, high-neck knits and boho-rhapsody dresses keep the spirit alive.
Where To Wear: People-watching outside Shakespeare and Company, naturellement!
By Abigail Gurney-Read