With the athleisure trend somewhat dominating the downtime landscape right now, you may be forgiven for thinking that the once-ubiquitous suit is taking a back seat when it comes everyday outfitting. Quite the opposite; with designers pushing the boundaries of cut, colours and form, playful prints, more crease-free fabrics and uber accessorising, 24/7 tailoring has never looked so smart.
Artist and style expert Louis-Nicolas Darbon shares his guide on how to do everyday, all-occasion tailoring.
Louis' Tailoring Rules:
1. It doesn’t matter how much the suit costs, it’s all about the fit. Find a good tailor, get measured up and make amends. These adjustments on your jackets and trousers however small will make a huge difference to the look and feel of the pieces.
2. Make sure you tailor your trousers with the right length and slim over the knees. Think about the shoes too when taking the trousers to the tailor. Once you find the perfect fit just make all your trousers the same.
3. Build up a capsule shoe wardrobe – invest in good quality shoes. A pair of brown Berluti leather loafers, a pair of suede boots from John Lobb, a great pair of slippers from Church's and some white classic leather sneakers. You will notice the difference this makes to your look.
"It doesn’t matter how much the suit costs, it’s all about the fit."
4. No wardrobe is complete without a double-breasted blazer, it is one of my absolute favourites and the most versatile piece you can own. For a casual look, I wear it with a simple T-shirt paired with jeans and slippers. For a more dressed up look, I swap the T-shirt for a crisp white shirt. It is the ultimate.
5. Every man needs a tuxedo in his arsenal - you always need to be prepared for a black tie dress code especially during Fashion Week. I like to dress my tuxedo blazer down with a T-shirt and some black jeans for a complete day-to-night look.
6. I love contrasts so I try to play around with that a lot in how I dress, like mixing designers with vintage finds. You can’t beat the combination of a perfectly-fitted suit paired with sneakers or a leather jacket topping chinos with some luxe leather or velvet slippers.
"No wardrobe is complete without a double-breasted blazer."
7. It’s all about finding the right brands or designers for you. I like Ralph Lauren for its selection of immaculately-cut blazers, waistcoats, the different colourways and fabrics. Burberry is my go-to brand for all my jackets, leather jackets, trench coats and everything in between - they just have the best fit. For tailoring it can really depend, I like to create things bespoke with my tailor but I would have to say the Italians do it the best - Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli and Canali always have a great selection of everything sprezzatura.
"Always carry at least one accessory besides your watch."
8. Always carry at least one accessory besides your watch. A scarf, a pair of sunglasses, a hat or a portfolio – it can really add to your look.
9. Find the perfect white shirt for you and buy 10 of them.
10. Make sure you have a good fragrance or cologne – that will become your signature. Build on this with other scents for different occasions.