Faced with a slightly more disjointed schedule than their womenswear counterparts, menswear show-goers would have done well to keep any reservations at the door for Spring/Summer 2018, as the season’s trends weren’t, on the whole, for the wallflowers among us. That said, as with any translation of a season, it should be about discovering the pieces you love and letting them update a well-curated wardrobe. While Hawaiian shirts and short shorts were some of the more statement looks, those that will prove easier to introduce will still up your style game for the season ahead.
Take stripes, for example. A menswear mainstay, perhaps, but rather than the traditional Breton or pinstripes, SS18’s were bold, often irregular and mostly vertical. From Olivier Rousteing’s monochrome Balmain-cum-Beetlejuice runway to Jonathan Anderson’s more colourful Loewe campaign – the Irish designer inspired by Salvador Dalí – and the mix-and-match on offer at Solid Homme, while contrast certainly came into play, only the bravest should attempt to combine two separate striped pieces themselves – one will make its mark.
Meanwhile, two trends that have already made their mark – namely athleisure and pink – felt somewhat elevated for SS18. If you’d ever had doubts about the luxe side of 'sportsluxe', this season’s retro silhouettes in sumptuous fabrics, sometimes finished with tailored detailing, will have worked to assuage them. Lanvin, Valentino and Palm Angels did it best, the former offering up ways of mixing sporty separates into tidier looks, while the latter two made the case for head-to-toeing it. And it was the polished performers championing pink, too. Moving on from the Millennials' namesake, it was the likes of TOM FORD, Ermenegildo Zegna and Pierpaolo Piccoli at Valentino again that looked to the full pink spectrum to deliver everything from block-colour suiting to jeans-and-tee combos – that said, a tee alone will do the trick for those who’d prefer to give just a nod to the colour trend.
Elsewhere, the message was to let loose, to put skinny jeans and slim-fit tailoring to the back of your wardrobe (for now) and make room for a more oversized fit. For some, this was served up via dad dressing circa 1980; led by Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga – who noted young fathers in the park with their children were his inspiration, and duly unveiled the SS18 collection in a park-like scene complete with children – an '80s sensibility came courtesy of colour – from pastels to zingy brights – and structure – think broad-shouldered, louche suits and leg-friendly, washed denim.
A more contemporary take on exaggerated form focused on a roomier, hulking silhouette, often starting at the shoulders – whether they be padded or dropped – for a top-heavy look that is almost deliberately ill-fitting, but so as to draw focus to the clothes and not the body. Championed by Raf Simons, with Unravel, Juun.J and more following suit, dip your toes into the trend with a knee-skimming shirt or T-shirt and add layers – try topping a regular shirt with an oversized short sleeve style – as you gain confidence, and outsize your accessories, from bags to beanies, to go all out.