From Makers House to Old Sessions House, it was a move of venue and an all-new slot on the London Fashion Week schedule for Christopher Bailey and the Burberry team, who presented the see-now, buy-now September 2017 collection to the brand’s front row devotees – Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Cara Delevingne included – as well as a global legion of live-streamers on the Saturday evening, rather than the Tuesday afternoon.
And while show-goers were treated to a Henry Moore exhibition last season, this season saw 'Here We Are', a collection of works by over 30 of the 20th century’s most celebrated social and documentary photographers – curated by Bailey himself – hang on the stripped-back walls of the former east London court. Inspired by the spirit captured in the photographs, Bailey also admitted to wanting to echo the aged, broken-down grandeur of the venue in the collection. How did that all translate? In short, superbly: as though proffering a cross section of British life and society, eccentricity was served up in the style of the wayward aristocrat while a youthful, punk edge seemed to come by way of the football terrace.
Taking to the runway to a Pet Shop Boys medley, the co-ed model line-up, which saw this season’s favourite, Kaia Gerber, joined by her brother Presley, weaved their way from room to room in an eclectic combination of sporty separates, cosy knits – Fair Isle, Aran and argyle were all accounted for – and checks aplenty. Indeed, Bailey affirmed his success in reclaiming the not-celebrated-since-the-noughties house signature, splashing beige, black and red on everything from oversized totes to the baseball caps that topped almost every look.
Outerwear was, as ever, a highlight, featuring translucent raincoats in pumped-up pastels, tailored tartan overcoats, warn-in trenches and fuzzy shearling coats and jackets, and capes, too; ideal for taking on September’s somewhat erratic weather. Lucky, then, that the collection is ready and awaiting an 'Add To Bag' now.
Shop: Burberry September 2017