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London Fashion Week

Mary Katrantzou AW17

Mary Katrantzou AW17 Getty

For Autumn/Winter 2017, Mary Katrantzou took her inspiration from the musical concept of fantasia – the improvisation of a piece based on a series of familiar melodies. The orchestra accompanying the models' strides was just the beginning of this notion as the collection worked to fuse the wardrobes of archetypal "heroes and heroines, charming princes and damsels in distress". This meant traditional menswear tailoring jazzed up with embellished Perspex flowers and tweedy wools overlaid with metallic tulle or gleaming jacquards.

With its box-shouldered jackets and straight midi skirts, the silhouette was unmistakably forties, an homage to the 1940 Disney film Fantasia and the final parade of princess-worthy, Swarovski crystal-embellished tulle gowns was made for modern-day Cinderellas, especially when topped with chunky furs in degradé shades.

When Katrantzou conjures up a theme she really sticks to it, finding myriad ways to weave it into her fashion narrative. Handled poorly, the Disney theme could have gone so very wrong (read: cheesy), but here the designer proved how multi-faceted her skills are, from print and embellishment to tailoring and shape, not to mention her storytelling ability.