Striking big into the synergy of form and its relationship with the decorative arts, from Victorian times through to Bauhaus, Mary Katrantzou's Autumn/Winter 2018 collection was a study in modernism, through the designer's unique lens. The showcase entitled 'Interior Lives' – and Katrantzou's 10th anniversary collection – didn't dwell too much on introspection, but instead honed in on the devices of decoration, making use of Katrantzou's craft of draping, silhouettes and trompe l'oeil work. As eccentric as it was eclectic – think the bomber jackets inspired by a Chesterfield sofa, or William Morris-style wallpaper, collaged into brocades and laminated dresses – this was a collection imparting many angles from open to exit.
Showing at Central Saint Martins – a nod perhaps to the study of fashion and indeed her beginnings – references to pointillism, Victoriana, furniture making and digital technology were rife, from the Bauhaus logo’d openers through to lampshade skirts and tapestry draped dresses. Jewelled and embroidered tabard dresses atop lavish brocade trousers gave an opulent edge, while dreamy Seurat-esque pastel dresses, studded with crystals, ruffles and peplums riffed on colour pigment and digital pixels.
With a decade under her belt and navigating through uncertain times, Katrantzou's resilience and evolution resounds, leading her into bright new tomorrows with as much energy and vigour as that first, much-lauded collection.
Shop: Mary Katrantzou