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London Fashion Week

Mary Katrantzou SS17

Mary Katrantzou SS17 London Fashion Week Getty

For someone whose collections regularly take an architectural slant, it was no surprise to see Mary Katrantzou return to her Greek roots for Spring/Summer 2017, the designer referring to the collection as an "archaeological exploration, unearthing the classics of Katrantzou".

Cue textured shifts in Sixties shapes featuring Minoan figures woven around the waists, almost as if they were belts. Mycenaean pottery patterns appeared on the sleeves and hems of tunic dresses while hourglass numbers (truly a Katrantzou classic in terms of shape) were reminiscent of Amphora vases. And, of course, there had to be Greek goddess maxi gowns to close the show – decorated with floppy peplums or flowing knife pleats, they were glamorous and feminine yet stoic and powerful, especially when adorned with jewel embellishment that resembled armoured plates.

In any other hands the effect could have been too literal but handled by Katrantzou, who somehow manages to make the OTT seem totally relevant and contemporary, it worked a dream.