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London Fashion Week

Peter Pilotto AW17

Peter Pilotto AW17 Getty

Design duo Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos may be masters of print but this season it was their reinvention of texture that took centre stage. Peruvian quilting, rug knitting, embroidery, crosshatch tweed, metallic fil coupé and lashings of velvet collided on sculpted wool tailoring, oversize knit-and-skirt combos and bias-cut gowns in a rich autumnal palette.

Prints were predominantly leaf-shaped, appearing as shimmery embroidery on whispy dresses or as blown-up velvet scribbles on oleander pink numbers while candy stripes were splashed on fine-knit dresses that were then wrapped in ombré lace. Meanwhile, outerwear, featuring patches of contrasting fabrics, was oversized and edged in Mongolian fur. The key here is in the layering – balancing high-shine pieces with more rustic ones and knowing when too much might sometimes be just enough.