"A hothouse of winter hedonism" called out the Peter Pilotto show notes, and Autumn/Winter 2018 was certainly all that and more for the design duo, Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos, and their vibrant line-up. Instead of their usual runway format, the pair opted to show at Tramp – the iconic '70s disco-dining club – to add fuel to the fire that this season's Pilotto woman is louche, laidback, psychedelic and out to have a good time.
True to form, colour was key for the season, in faded jewel washes from coral, caramel, chartreuse and peach through to petrol and midnight blue. Blown glass in degradé floral prints flowed over lithe dresses and pantsuits, while opulent jacquard fabrics imbued with Biedermeier-esque elements gave a richness, further riffed on by tapestries and graphic ombré dresses in hammered satin. Kaftans and kimonos kept the silhouette unfettered, fluid and floaty. Tailoring was loose in piped crêpe and quilted silks, cinched with tassel belts to give a smoking jacket, loungewear effect. Focusing largely on the interior life, outerwear was present in patchworks of tufted cashmere and teddy shearling, while a clear return to opulence for the denouement of the collection: prismatic sequins and buttons and the duo’s signature parachute silk dresses kept the party going into the after-hours.
Shop: Peter Pilotto