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London Fashion Week

Roksanda AW16

Roksanda AW16 - London Fashion Week Getty

For a designer renowned for collections as bold in colour as they are in silhouette, Autumn/Winter 2016 at Roksanda was an altogether moodier affair, with streamlined separates and deeper tones – plum, rich tobacco, midnight blue – predominating on the runway.

Citing Charlotte Rampling in The Night Porter and the work of American photographer Deborah Turbeville as references, Ilincic kicked off proceedings with a beautifully tailored, double-breasted coat topped with a fur collar, complete with pussybow tie, and with ruffled cuffs poking out from beneath the sleeves – a look that was Forties in feel but with Seventies-style accents.

While pussybow ties and ruffles continued to emerge apace, Seventies accents gave way to full-blown looks – mini shifts paired with thigh-high boots, retro patterns, pyjama suiting with peak lapels – before a final procession of irresistibly tactile gowns in pleated satin, sumptuous velvet and embroidered silk made the front row swoon.

  • Roksanda AW16 - London Fashion Week Rex
  • Roksanda AW16 - London Fashion Week Rex