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London Fashion Week

Roksanda AW17

Roksanda AW17 Getty

Roksanda Illincic dedicated her Autumn/Winter 2017 show to the late Richard Nicoll by opening with a lone silk dress in pale blue (the designer's signature colour, recently coined 'Nicoll Blue' by Pantone) accompanied by the sounds of Michael Nyman on piano in a poignant tribute to her friend and contemporary.

From there the collection took off in a sea of ripe reds with a sprinkling of marigold, cobalt and white thrown in on loose, billowing silhouettes. Day dresses – which Roksanda excels at – were supremely sophisticated in silk-satin with asymmetric hems and voluminous sleeves but cinched at the waist with sporty drawstrings or wide leather belts. Skirts featuring the same bias-cut lengths were paired with oversize blouses, tunics and blazers in on-tone shades while trousers (of which there were but a few, let's face it, Roksanda's a dress girl) were cuffed, cropped and culotte-style. And for the winning combo of the season, the sweater-and-skirt set, an out-size funnel neck jumper with extra-long sleeves and a mid-thigh hem appeared over a pleated midi skirt, both splashed with Mondrian-style squares.

Outerwear proved to be as desirable as ever, with roomy capes complementing the louche silhouette while coats – and even a divine fur gilet – were cinched at the waist with those same drawstrings.