Clothes as a means to protect and empower is a theme emerging from the Autumn/Winter 2018 runways, and who better to speak to this than Roksanda Ilincic with her strength of form and cocooning silhouettes, sheltering her woman in an achingly chic complete day-through-night wardrobe via her unwavering eloquence in the details of femininity.
Opening with outerwear, the sharply tailored camel coat was given an edge, spliced with flashes of red paneling, wrapped up in a supersize, downy scarf, or suited in a long blazer, popped-collar style, while a fuzzy teddy-shearling jacket and vanilla-hued blanket wraps gave comfort and reassurance, enveloping sinuous satin tapered trousers and blouses. Masterful in her innate ability to empower through her palette, camel, duck egg, cream, lavender, claret and vibrant red – this was quintessential Roksanda but, as ever, never monotonous or overdone. Loosening the silhouette, the designer has dabbled with super ruffles and and flocked bell sleeves since the very beginning, so a little dalliance into this signature move was expected, and executed exquisitely in grey, mustard and midnight blue satins – perfectly acceptable for day.
For after-dark, the designer served a cocktail of fluid and liquid satin slips, toying with peplums, until, for her final exits, the full extent of her night vision was revealed in clouds of layered tulle, trapeze shapes, in wistful, cocooning confections. An ode to the elegance and strength of the Roksanda woman.