There are few designers – past or present – who, at a glance, are instantly recognisable through their use of colour. Roksanda Ilincic is one of the few who wields her palette with such presence; it is her signature and yet her point of difference with each and every season. And, for Spring/Summer 2017 – an ode to summer, executed with the passion and precision echoed in the soundtrack provided by pianist Lubomyr Melnyk waxing lyrical about the joy of playing, the colours were of the earth – rust, copper, nightshade, pebble, peony and pollen – all basking in the soft focus glare of a hazy sunlit afternoon.
Fluidity – another classic Roksanda move – came in new waves, this time a touch sportier, with billowing layers almost petal-like in the breeze, floaty tunics atop satin culottes, ankle-grazing dresses with fluted hems and voluminous sleeves nipped-in at the wrist. Then came the print. If last season the designer looked to the universe for its mysterious constellation of moons and stars, for this collection, it was firmly back down to ground, looking to flowers and even the equine and ostrich feathers for inspiration.
And if previously it was those fast-iconic bell sleeves that topped the front row’s wish list, as soon as sunnier weather hits 2017, expect to be clad in stratified clouds of silk and satin, swinging a neat little double-ring bag by your side.
"Feminine shapes ruled supreme in this beautiful collection with a colour palette that was super-chic, dominated by dusty pinks and burnt orange shades. Ankle-grazing dresses came printed with abstract florals or satin panels for a texture clash, while tailoring was given a feminine makeover with silky wide-leg trousers and feather embellishment," said Helen David, Harrods Chief Merchant, of the show.