Roksanda Ilincic's background in architecture and applied arts – which the designer studied at university – is often cited as forming the foundation of her aesthetic; so for Spring/Summer 2018, the show space felt very fitting, it being outside at the Serpentine Pavilion, beneath a magnificent structural tree-like canopy designed by rising French architect Francis Kéré.
Russian Constructivism was hailed a key inspiration, but the collection felt looser – not tied to one idea. Instead, it was made up of floor-length smocks and empire dresses, loose-fitting tunics that flowed freely in light-as-a-feather silks and languid satin that exuded sensuality and sophistication, and silhouettes that didn’t conform to one structure. Colour, an omnipresent theme within Ilincic's collections, arrived promptly in shades of orange, deep fuchsia and cerise. And the richer tones of her chosen palette continued into the finale of 3D-flower organza gowns, with each dress representing a different flower and form of nature – very fitting for the show's garden surroundings.