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London Fashion Week

Roland Mouret AW17

Roland Mouret AW17 Getty

Returning to London for his label's 20th anniversary was more than a just a homecoming for Roland Mouret, it was the chance to acknowledge his own accomplishments and see how far he has come. After all, "I was supposed to be a butcher in my father's shop in Lourdes," he revealed, "so I am not what I ought to be."

For this special collection, the Creative Director seemed to look both backwards and forwards, fusing the signature architectural silhouette made famous by his much-copied Galaxy dress with a newfound nonchalance. Slinky knits, for instance, came in metallic mesh, perfectly hugging the body both as tops and skirts cut on the bias while double wool crepe dresses in grape or teal featured cut-away shoulders and fold-over necklines, their shapes pin-tucked into place with that precise geometry only Mouret seems to nail. Similarly, jackets were sculpted to the waist and worn with cuffed trousers for a womanly yet tailored silhouette.

And as for eveningwear, there's no denying these numbers do a body good, even 20 years on – in stretch viscose or plush velvet they contoured the body just so and fell in asymmetrical points for a fresh take on cocktail hour attire, whether in traditional black and navy or zesty clementine.

Not bad going for a man not trained in fashion design.