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London Fashion Week

Roland Mouret AW18

Femininity, and all its powers, was at the crux of Autumn/Winter 2018 at Roland Mouret. Taking as his muse the 1970s cult film The Eyes Of Laura Mars, this was a collection about a woman in control of her own image, in control of how the world sees her. A theme explored by Mouret throughout his career but for this collection more poignant and potent given the current landscape, it played through dichotomy and juxtaposition, a fluidity of form and fit.

A marked move away from the signature Mouret dress, the designer used draping to create a looser, softer effect, easily wearable for both day and night. True to form, tailoring was key, but this took on more technical masculine structure – a deliberate feminine appropriation perhaps – in Prince of Wales check, sharp double-breasted blazers, trenches and capes with exposed stitching and oversized lapels. Mixing and matching textures, contrasting jacquard silks made up a story of soft dresses and skirts, while lurex georgette and velvet corduroy walked the line between the hard and soft. And, while a heavier, opaque aesthetic prevailed, there was space in Mouret’s world for a little playful sheerness and delicacy, adding to the duality of proceedings.

Shop: Roland Mouret