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London Fashion Week

Roland Mouret SS18

Roland Mouret SS18 Getty

Roland Mouret's understanding of the female form and how to maximise a silhouette has always been intrinsic to his eponymous label, but after 20 years of presenting the more structured style for which he's renowned the French designer adopted a laissez faire attitude for Spring/Summer 2018 to brave and bold effect.

With Daisy Lowe – the designer's ultimate hourglass patron, wearing a lilac off-the-shoulder design – sat among British Vogue’s Edward Enninful and style maven Olivia Palermo on the front row, the Brutalist environs of the National Theatre Foyer seemed to suggest deconstruction was on the cards. Standing out against the industrial grey backdrop, however, floral and patchwork prints adorned flowing asymmetric dresses and skirts, while textured knits and fringing channelled a more bohemian vibe. Structured elements – a corset, a pencil skirt – remained, but only to balance more nonchalant styling.

The designer explained in his show notes that his vision had been to destroy the idea of perfection and understand what it feels like to be a woman in today's unbalanced world. Needless to say, then, that sense of sartorial armour for which Mouret designs have always been called on still remains.

Shop: Roland Mouret