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London Fashion Week

Tommy Hilfiger AW17

Tommy Hilfiger AW17 Getty

From New York City via Venice Beach, California, Tommy Hilfiger brought the third season of #TommyNow to the UK to close London Fashion Week. Having taken over a pier and created a carnival for the previous unveilings of the Tommy x Gigi collaboration, production was never going to be small scale for the London edition: guests (a distinctly London crew included Pixie Geldof, Amber Le Bon, Daisy Lowe and Rafferty Law), editors and the public were invited to the Roundhouse and a Rock Circus. Hotdogs were served as people posed for a poster with a life-size picture of Gigi and personalised merch at the pop-up customisation pitch. And then the red and white lights dimmed…

Descending the metal staircase to circle the crowd on both the ground and first floor first was Gigi, of course, in a cropped rollneck top and cut-off denim shorts with ribbed hold-ups and a grunge-style, long checked coat topping the look. Sister Bella was up next, wearing the same hold-up socks and an oversized hoodie-cum-mini dress, with brother Anwar following in quick succession – signalling the Tommy x Gigi expansion into menswear – in a leather lumberjack-style jacket with slack trousers, chain looped at the hips.

Music – the soundtrack was distinctly '90s and early Noughties-based, featuring tracks like Faith Evans' Love Like This Before – played a huge part in the creation of the collection, Hilfiger recalling a trip he'd made to London in the '70s and his impression of the city's fusion of fashion and music, and Gigi acknowledging Generation Y's ability to mash-up musical references via street style. With the red, white and blue of the Tommy logo featuring heavily in the collection, too, Hilfiger seemed to be reclaiming hip-hop's love for the brand in the '90s – that note of reclamation still lingering in the air post-Burberry.

Grunge, punk, heavy metal and hip-hop; it all played out in slip dresses, hoodies, oversized puffer jackets, denim and leather, with beanies and boots completing the look. No sooner had Hilfiger and Hadid taken their bows than acrobats started descending from the ceiling, the stage then set for The Chainsmokers. But with the see-now, buy-now collection ready and waiting for purchase, show-goers couldn’t help but be distracted.