As fluidity prevails and binaries begin to meld, for Fendi, Autumn/Winter 2018 is part of a discourse on the balance of power, the shift in perceptions as women march into new times. And, of course, with a heritage in dressing powerful women, for Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturi Fendi, this was a dynamic uniform, romantic yet concise, filled with solid staples, sharp silhouettes and archive fabrics, quiet in its delivery (aside from the Supertramp soundtrack, selected by Lagerfeld), yet no less impactful for it.
Taking the view that the '80s – the breakout era of the season – often paid deference to the '40s, the 'New Look' silhouette was key, deconstructed at times, dressed out with modern features, including the cropped puffa, fur stole or hybrid textures, and yet remained complicit in its film noir edge mingled with a sense of heritage and faded grandeur from the plaids, laminated tweeds and checks. Conveying a sense of gravitas and seriousness through the mostly muted palette of browns, olives, plums and navy, playful sides emerged in the house’s logo plays – merging Fendi with that of '90s athleisure kids Fila – while matchy-matchy cowboy boots and bag pairings gave a co-ordinated edge.
Nothing too radical, nor a break from Fendi form here, yet in uncertain times, and amid a period of change, this was a decisive collection from two of fashion's finest, which tapped the zeitgeist and prevailed in comfort, functionality and flair.