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Milan Fashion Week

Max Mara AW17

Max Mara AW17

"Cool, cultured, unflappable and highbrow" – meet the Max Mara woman of Autumn/Winter 2017, and frankly every winter season, when the Italian fashion house really comes into its own amidst a sea of elegant outerwear.

This season the label was inspired by Scandi design, sleek in its simplicity yet directional in its attitude. Texture was key as a mix of fabrics, including alpaca, camel hair, shearling, yak and double-face cashmere combined on luxe coats, louche suiting and full-skirted silhouettes.

The camel hair coat, a power piece if there ever was one, was given a Nordic twist with the addition of hoods, shearling trims and chunky wool mittens trailing from the sleeves. Long, short, belted, oversized, in camel, cognac, red, black or grey – there is something for everyone and every occasion in the line-up. The coatigan is also having a moment, having been spotted on runways across the world, it appeared here as a shearling and bonded knit hybrid. Layered over louche suits or pleated skirts, they articulated a chic yet youthful élan, as modelled by Gigi Hadid, Lily Donaldson and Isabeli Fontana; likewise the camel hair sweatshirt and chunky cable knit jumpers.

For after-hours, it was all about the strapless tuxedo dress or the sleeveless jumpsuit – worn over tissue cashmeres they nailed the evening layering trend.