"You've got to climb Mount Everest to reach the Valley of the Dolls," read Jeremy Scott's show notes, quoting Jacqueline Susann, author of the controversial 1966 novel, The Valley of the Dolls. Known for taking a kitsch theme and running with it, the designer built his Spring/Summer 2017 collection for Moschino around the notion of paper dolls – the old fashioned kind with the tabs that folded back to hold a garment in place. And so, every look in the beauty pageant-style show featured tabs peeping out from spaghetti-strapped satin gowns, Sixties-style court shoes, hats and clutch bags.
Trompe l'oeil, one of Scott's favourite motifs, was used in every way possible – oversized bows were painted on evening dresses, chains of pearls were stamped on leather minis, fishnet stockings and lingerie were painted on bodysuits to create the illusion of near-nakedness and teddy bears became two dimensional and adorned the necklines of cocktail dresses. Graffiti, also a go-to element for Scott, was splashed across sporty pieces including hoodies and sweatsuits.
And to finish it all off? A prescription pillbox clutch, of course – just what the doctor ordered! Although this was a much more sedate show than Scott's last offerings, it was still super-fun, which is what his loyal followers, both A-list and non, want, with a more elegant twist.