There are only ever a handful of shows each season – if that – that will not just set the fashion agenda for the next six months but, indeed, set out to transform it; the Prada Autumn/Winter 2016 show was one of them. Even by Miuccia standards this unveiling felt more elevated than ever before.
The designer's genius lies in the juxtaposition of the haute and every day: dresses in Forties shapes came tightly-strapped at the waist with wide belts – look closely and you could see they were made of utilitarian canvas and topped with coated field jackets. Fur-trimmed coats were layered over printed silk dresses but teamed with chunky knit socks and jaunty sailor-style hats to take them down a notch. Leather anoraks came in colour-block hues of navy and red, their lower halves quilted for an extra-luxe effect. There was not a trouser in the bunch (Argyle stockings under tweed capes don't count) but the line-up had a decisive strength about it.
Eveningwear, meanwhile, took the shape of gilded brocade circle dresses, full floral-printed skirts or lush velvet columns (officially the piece to buy for party season) that came with romantic loops of fabric artfully draped just off the shoulders. A standing ovation for Mrs Prada was really the least we could do.
"For sure Miuccia's strongest show in years, sophisticated brocades, nipped waists, '50s circle skirts, corsetry and beautiful outerwear made for a very 'Prada' Prada show. The collection was exactly as we would always hope it to be and one of the strongest of the season," said Helen David, Harrods Chief Merchant, of the show.