With mega, rather glitzy shoes to fill, and a house known for a very distinct aesthetic, his second season in at Roberto Cavalli and for designer Paul Surridge it's all about moving the codes of glamour so characterised by the house into a new era, ushering in a new dynamic for the brand and its woman. Taking the notion that glamour is confidence, Autumn/Winter 2018 delved into this with a collection that seemed to err much more on the softer side of sensual, rather than all-out, über sexy, as had gone before.
If his first season had been a very modernist take for such a flamboyant house, then for his second collection, there was a little more deference to his master’s voice, as animal prints – think snow leopard and cat prints – were key on a multitude of looks, not to mention exotic skin on everything from biker jackets to trousers. Ombré and degradé colour effects, meanwhile, were sprayed across scarf-hem dresses, jackets and even a male model’s torso. Evidence of Surridge's menswear and tailoring background was clear from the sharp cuts and concise silhouettes that were, at times, almost seeking to blur the gender lines – think the patent leather moto shirt and trouser combination, or the rouched, side-split gown that revealed black skinny trousers underneath. Imparting some progressive ideas, yet still with plenty more to explore, for a house as storied as this, it's nothing but interesting and evolving times ahead.
Shop: Roberto Cavalli