For his debut collection at a fashion house known for its unapologetically vibrant take on glamour, Paul Surridge went for a somewhat introspective approach in comparison to his more extroverted Roberto Cavalli predecessors. Working with the house pillars – animalier, colour, lithe and floaty silhouettes – the designer mingled this with sports-luxe, athletic elements to channel a wearable, everyday wardrobe for the Cavalli woman who wants her garments to work hard.
To the animalier print, this was artfully woven through the collection, either all-out or blocked across coats and dresses, without it dominating the vibe of the collection. There were red carpet-worthy dresses with sleek illusion panels, cut-out and racer-back elements, in muted shades of midnight blue, black and eggshell, as well as technical day dresses, plunge-neck and halter gowns, and an all-black leather trouser-and-jacket pairing to finish. A markedly more minimalist approach, this was a collection about forging a new sensibility for the house while remaining true to its foundations.
Shop: Roberto Cavalli