Weaving a nomadic, wanderlust narrative into the 3.1 Phillip Lim Autumn/Winter 2018 runway, for Phillip Lim, this was a season to really take stock. Past, present and futures collided in his recollection of making clothes from his mother's scraps of fabric, turning the discarded into the desirable, blurring the lines between feminine and masculine – a signature move, yes, but this season with an altogether alternative vigour.
Hitting hard and fast, there was little let up in the cacophony of clashed prints, textures, layers-upon-layers, and, that play on fitted and fluid proportions Lim so loves to make. Take, for example, the opening exit, a cow-print ponyskin coat topping a multicolour stripe-knit tunic dress atop a chunky ribbed roll neck, or the riot of colour-block and striped pastels – at times erring on fluoro – on long dresses, skirts, roll necks, smocks and duster coats; there was a freedom here, a zest and joy for the mismatched. Easing into a more restrained, neutral palette of navy, whites, tans and black, as the colours quietened so too did the silhouettes, with layering becoming more minimal and trenches and blazers emerging – albeit softened significantly – while suiting took crumply, baggy forms in heritage fabrics.
For the final exits, Lim segued back to the patchwork pieces of his childhood, with handkerchief dresses and hems flowing freely under asymmetric knits or puffy anoraks. And, treating bags as integral layering elements across the collection via squashy side-clutched totes, oversized top handles and neat cross-body purses, Lim packed his wanderers for a life on the road.
Shop: 3.1 Phillip Lim