Proving with flux comes flow, Alexander Wang, who recently announced his departure from the traditional New York Fashion Week schedule, moving into the pre-season calendar to produce faster and more frequent drops throughout the year, staged his final on-schedule show in the old Condé Nast building, where he interned early in his career. Taking a very different direction to the #Wangfest guerrilla-style street party of last season, when the designer ferried in a party bus of models to showcase his collection to both the public and industry, for Autumn/Winter 2018, Alexander Wang means business. While not the first designer to dabble with motifs from the corporate world of late – Demna Gvasalia springs straight to mind – this is the executive lounge, Wang-style.
For a collection shown in a location that had such resonance to Wang’s past, there was a distinct look ahead to the future, not least in part thanks to the Matrix-style sunglasses and slicked-back hair or hat which punctuated each look, but also through the use of zips. Woven in as a mechanism to turn suit jackets into dresses, crossing diagonally or splayed out around the waist, encircling as pockets or running as a cuff around the neck, this was less about function and more about device. A mostly signature monochrome palette, there was a brief flirtation with hot pink to add a fleeting change in energy, echoed by flashes of silver elements towards the final exits.
'CEO 2018' shouted out across the collection, emblazoned on shirts, jackets, sunglasses, tights and silver chokers, as seen on Vittoria Ceretti, and even Wang's own sweatshirt as he took his bow. The platinum card motif also featured running down the legs on trousers and tights. But this was not a collection that had literal translations to the boardroom, it still retained much of Wang’s signature streetwear moves, just updated with a new power and maturity in mind.
Shop: Alexander Wang