Instead of trying to establish or fit into trends, Carolina Herrera's aim is to stay true to herself and the codes of the house she established on the late Diana Vreeland's suggestion; that is to produce sophisticated and elegant clothes that have the ease of a simple white shirt. And it seems her brand of style, even in these days of fast fashion and social media hype, is resonating not just with the Upper East Side crowd but with the likes of Olivia Palermo and Giovanna Engelbert, too, who not only sit front row but also wear her clothes.
This season was no different, despite the new show venue (an industrial space in the Meat Packing District instead of The Frick on the Upper East Side). In fact, Herrera, who was after achieving a sense of calm elegance, brought things right back to basics, starting with the ubiquitous white shirt, which was reimagined with feminine ruffles and bows – some acted as cuff ties, others adorned the front of shirts in black velvet. The bow theme continued on day coats and pleated chiffon skirts teamed with chunky knitwear, which were worn with flat boots and sheer black stockings – perhaps a nod to New York's merciless winters but a styling trick that made the looks modern and wearable.
Even eveningwear was fuss free – gowns in navy, blush, teal and red were cut loose and flowed away from the body, necklines were high at the front but featured scooped backs, trailing hems or billowing capes. Graceful, classic and feminine - who would say no to that?