Returning to the Frick Collection for the third season, Carolina Herrera reprised her role as the queen of elegant dressing but with a few unexpected twists, a sure sign that she is no longer just dressing A-listers and Upper East Side socialists, but contemporary women across the world.
Firstly there was denim, but not as you know it; the debut looks consisted of a midi dress with moulded sleeves, a twisted sleeveless top and, you guessed it, a shirt dress, all crafted in the hard-wearing material. Secondly, there were sports influences: a shrunken knit with a number patch on the sleeve; tennis skirt knife pleats on gowns. All of this was handled with the utmost sophistication, of course. In a sleek palette of black and white (usually both, appearing in thick stripes on one look), there was a sense of ease with the line-up, even when it consisted of a very formal gown.
Signature elements included the ubiquitous white shirt tucked into bandeau dresses, wasp-waisted midi dresses in molten metallics, an exquisite feminine paper bag waisted skirt that looked as though it had been freshly painted in a floral pattern just minutes before the show, and, naturally, the carpet-sweepers. In gingham, white tulle or monochrome stripes, there was something for everyone, including front row-ers Karlie Kloss and Nicky Hilton Rothschild.