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New York Fashion Week

Carolina Herrera SS17

Carolina Herrera SS17 Getty

Returning to the Frick Collection for the third season, Carolina Herrera reprised her role as the queen of elegant dressing but with a few unexpected twists, a sure sign that she is no longer just dressing A-listers and Upper East Side socialists, but contemporary women across the world.

Firstly there was denim, but not as you know it; the debut looks consisted of a midi dress with moulded sleeves, a twisted sleeveless top and, you guessed it, a shirt dress, all crafted in the hard-wearing material. Secondly, there were sports influences: a shrunken knit with a number patch on the sleeve; tennis skirt knife pleats on gowns. All of this was handled with the utmost sophistication, of course. In a sleek palette of black and white (usually both, appearing in thick stripes on one look), there was a sense of ease with the line-up, even when it consisted of a very formal gown.

Signature elements included the ubiquitous white shirt tucked into bandeau dresses, wasp-waisted midi dresses in molten metallics, an exquisite feminine paper bag waisted skirt that looked as though it had been freshly painted in a floral pattern just minutes before the show, and, naturally, the carpet-sweepers. In gingham, white tulle or monochrome stripes, there was something for everyone, including front row-ers Karlie Kloss and Nicky Hilton Rothschild.