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New York Fashion Week

DKNY AW16

DKNY Autumn/Winter 2016 - New York Fashion Week Getty

The original street style brand, DKNY has always had a sporty streak, which made it one of the hottest young brands of the Nineties. For their second season at the helm of DKNY, designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osbourne were on a mission to bring the house aesthetic back to the streets, starting with deconstructed tailoring and plenty of athletic accents. Their inspiration? "Strong girl bands from the '90s who were able to show sexuality with a tomboy feel," they revealed.

Cue abbreviated blazers, drawstring-waisted jumpsuits and super-wide trousers, some cut off above the ankle, others pooling around the models' rubber-soled platforms, all reimagined in Karan's signature motif, the pinstripe. Meanwhile, bomber jackets with oversized sleeves and curved shoulders featured ironic hashtags on the back and slip dresses were elevated from grunge status with silky fabrics and trailing ribbons.

The collection may have been predominantly black but its textures – from netting to satin to shearling to jersey – added plenty of variety. For the grand finale, the design duo, who also head up their menswear label, Public School, pulled a 'Burberry' and sent all their models back out on the runway for their final parade in sweatshirts topping their looks, each with different anagrams of DKNY. "We just want to have fun," the pair told us in their show notes.