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New York Fashion Week

J. Mendel AW17

J. Mendel AW17

In sharp contrast to the week's runway shows staged in cavernous warehouses was Gilles Mendel's elegant salon-style presentation for J. Mendel in Soho's Ladurée – an apt setting for the collection, with its delicate chiffon confections appearing in macaroon shades. It felt like a return to the intimate couture presentations of yesteryear except that the gowns and furs on display looked totally relevant for today.

Ballerina-style numbers with slim bodices and full pleated tulle skirts in pistachio and rose came belted and topped with fur chubbies dyed in complementary sugared-almond shades. Meanwhile, mid-length numbers peeked out from shorter coats, a silhouette that is unquestionably modern. One leopard print topper was totally on point as the coat of choice for the style set this week has been just this. Intricate beading techniques, lace overlays and flowing trains provided the show-stopping elements that make J. Mendel practically a couture house.