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New York Fashion Week

J. Mendel SS17

J Mendel SS17

It was in July of this year that J. Mendel made its debut on the couture schedule in Paris, and it would seem that Gilles Mendel was keen to bring back more than just a memento – the occasion prompting the designer to present his Spring/Summer 2017 Ready-to-Wear collection in the more intimate environs of The Standard, East Village Penthouse, rather than via the usual runway show.

All the better for seeing the exquisite pieces up close, dress forms (shipped from the atelier in Paris) took the place of models, while an accompanying video ensured the Emilio Jiménez-inspired collection of diaphanous gowns, pleated midi dresses and featherweight fur capelets were captured in motion.

Mostly monochrome but also in sugar-dusted pastels and shots of burgundy, layers of geometric lace – some finished with sequins and sheared fur panels – created a play on shadows that was only maximised by the brand’s customary dose of fur, which came summer-ready in tulle-bonded stripes and cut-out grid patterns.