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New York Fashion Week

Jenny Packham SS17

Jenny Packham SS17 Getty

"This season I was inspired by Peggy Guggenheim's 1943 show called 31 Women," Jenny Packham revealed backstage ahead of her Spring/Summer 2017 show. "It was controversial at the time because it was about women and it was about surrealism but it was so impactful." And so the designer and her team came up with their very own list of 31 women who inspire them. Who made the cut? A mix of classic and modern-day muses, each with her own distinct sense of style, ranging from Angelica Huston, Stevie Nicks, Brigitte Bardot, Lauren Bacall and Peggy Guggenheim herself to Blake Lively, Julianne Moore, Jennifer Connelly and Rooney Mara.

Although Packham admitted that she prefers designing the spring/summer collections because of the use of colour, this line-up played out mostly in a monochrome palette with pops of red and requisite metallic shades for a dose of Hollywood glamour. From a beaded column in black and gold to a white pleated Grecian gown; a boxy, double-breasted tuxedo jacket to a delicate lace playsuit; a frothy pale pink carpet-sweeper to an orange off-the-shoulder day dress, each number was as individual as its muse. Does the designer have a favourite? "Not yet, ask me after the show. The Joan Jett number with the wide bell sleeves is a contender but I always change my mind," she revealed. Both the theme and the show-stopping looks seemed to resonate with the audience, who whooped vigorously when Packham took her final bow.