Entitled 'Fractured', Michele Smith’s Autumn/Winter 2017 Milly collection was, the designer said, a reflection of her reaction to the current state of US politics – something that will no doubt underpin many a New York show, as well as in subsequent fashion capitals. Most explicit in the apparent tears and plentiful cut-outs that exposed arms, midriffs and thighs, the theme seemed to offer a glimmer of hope, however, with bold sequin skirts, lustrous satin midi dresses and embellished gowns peeking out from beneath cropped sweaters and masculine tailoring.
And if ever something good was to come out of "fractured" times, it could be that this was one of the designer’s most cohesive, captivating collections to date. Shirting – a trend that has been gathering momentum for a few seasons now – was key, with generous gathered sleeves emerging from beneath sweater cuffs and deconstructed styles creating all-new shapes. The coats, meanwhile, couldn’t have been more tempting – particularly a shawl-collar, floor-length number in dusky pink – and a final procession of wispy gowns with plunging necklines promised there will still be reason to get dressed up and celebrate ahead.