Three seasons in and Peter Copping seems well and truly settled at Oscar de la Renta. The sign? His Autumn/Winter 2016 designs were reminiscent of the late, great designer but carried his own decisive stamp, particularly in the muted colour palette that made the collection feel more contemporary.
Silhouettes were ultra-feminine, with nipped-in waists and circle skirts sculpting the models' bodies via some clever pin-tucking (remember that pink dress worn by Carrie on her date with Petrovsky?). Skirt suits, meanwhile, boasted swing jackets with bracelet sleeves while the leather dress received a ladylike makeover with the addition of some strategically-placed volume. Shapely sweaters were shrunken and tucked into demure knee-length skirts and dresses featured delicate boning for the ultimate hourglass silhouette. Outerwear consisted of heavy satin frock coats or midi-length furs that were cinched tightly at the waist.
Fabrics were, of course, of the most luxurious standard, with lace, silk jacquard and mink all in the mix, and accessories added the perfect nostalgic touch – little fur collars on ribbed knits, satin chokers that concluded in seriously oversized bows at the rear and elbow-length leather gloves were nothing short of spectacular.
"Peter is now well settled into his role and this showed in the collection. We got what we wanted: beautiful daytime dressing via separates, rather than ladies-who-lunch dresses, and entrance-making evening gowns. Bows featured heavily, but as a surprise feature at the back of the neck, while the colour palette mixed easy neutrals with lots of pink and jewel tones," said Helen David, Harrods Chief Merchant, of the show.