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New York Fashion Week

Proenza Schouler AW16

Proenza Schouler Autumn/Winter 2016 - New York Fashion Week Getty

Always a highlight of the New York Fashion Week schedule, designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez raised the bar even further by staging their show at the Whitney Museum in the Meatpacking District – the first brand to be granted permission to host an event there. The glass-vaulted ceiling and curved walls were the perfect backdrop for the collection, which featured sculpted suiting and cut-away dresses.

The first exit consisted of a waisted, double-breasted black blazer layered over slouchy white trousers and set the tone for the entire collection: chic, classic, contemporary and edgy at the same time. Lacing was a reoccurring feature, binding together the front panels and sleeves of jackets and dresses and, where appropriate, leaving them undone to show some skin.

Coats were supremely feminine with their hourglass shapes, appearing in multi-coloured fur, shearling and leather and occasionally decorated with buttons and rivets for a new take on embellishment. The palette was sophisticated, with black and ivory pepped up with citrine, paprika and – wait for it – brown. Chocolate shades are making a major comeback and who better than to kick start the movement than with trend-setting Proenza? Accessories-wise, box bags came in patent or in zebra prints while cross-bodies came with shortened chains so bags sat just under the arm.