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New York Fashion Week

Victoria Beckham AW18

Victoria Beckham AW18 Getty

It's hard to imagine a time when Victoria Beckham wasn't a mainstay of New York Fashion Week, but, celebrating 10 years since her first appointments, the designer took things full circle, opting for a quieter, more intimate presentation to ring in her decade in the industry – a refined note to the evolution of the brand and more introspectively, herself at its helm. Set to take her Spring/Summer 2019 collection to London Fashion Week in September to give a nod to her British roots, 2018 is looking to be a big year for Beckham.

Freeing her silhouette from those figure-hugging dresses that characterised her early days, the designer and the brand have come a long way in fashion years. Whether perfecting tailoring or easing into more fluid shapes, from the girliness of gingham to the glitz of those Dorothy heels – the cause of a major Instagram moment last season – through to more masculine or boyish cuts and minimal detailing, Beckham proves with each collection that she understands the complexities of her women, their moods, their desires and how they want the world to see them.

With this in mind, Autumn/Winter 2018 was a collection about three-dimensionality; the quietness of the setting was for the benefit of the audience, to not only see, but hear the movement in the clothes as Beckham herself explained: "These clothes embrace the contours of the female form, echoing the design aesthetic that I originally started with. Here, a decade on, it is strong – presented in a new elevated and evolved form for my woman today."

Coating, one of Beckham's strengths, played a key role in the collection, doubled-up, belted, in wool, green leather or vibrant in leopard print, while boxy tunics added a more low-key edge. Her go-to plissé skirt was present, but this season dressed down with an oversized hoodie, or as an added layer under a cinch-waist dress. Utilitarian elements remained strong with an oversized parka and harness-belt dress, while, despite several flashes of leopard print, the palette remained muted bar for the purple and yellow pops from giant slouchy tote bags. An homage, at times, to Phoebe Philo's Céline in its minimal simplicity and decisive silhouettes, it was a collection both insightfully judged and deftly executed, ushering in a new decade to come at Victoria Beckham.

Shop: Victoria Beckham