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New York Fashion Week

Victoria Beckham SS17

Victoria Beckham SS17 Getty

This season Victoria Beckham's show fell on the 15th anniversary of 9/11. That it was staged in the heart of the financial district, just a few blocks from where the tragedy occurred, at just about the same time in the morning, felt poignant, especially when two minutes of silence - one for each tower - were observed. The designer herself paid tribute to the city by writing on her show notes: "On this important anniversary, I commemorate the victims of the September 11th attacks."

With husband David Beckham and the couple's eldest son, Brooklyn, taking their usual seats beside Anna Wintour, the show went on in a sea of languid shapes that confirmed the designer's mission for the season: "Evolving a looser silhouette in a collection with an assured free spirit." First up was a series of sleeveless washed satin dresses that fell in pleated tiers to the knee. Complete with arm straps or bralet décolletages they were effortless and cool. These were joined by smocked lace dresses and pleated leather numbers in warm tobacco hues that were matched to this season's Tissue Bag (carried scrunched-up in the models' hands) and soft suits in navy and khaki.

But the biggest statement came in the way of a series of velvet dresses. The fabric is enjoying a renaissance this AW16, but for summer? Beckham made the case with crushed velvet sheaths in summery shades like aquamarine, making them relevant for the season.