Although Sarah Burton's shows are less theatrical in their staging than when they were under the care of Alexander McQueen, there is no shortage of atmosphere come curtain call. This season the designer moved the show back to Paris after one season in London and presented the collection on a runway of paint-splattered canvases. Burton also took her inspiration back to the Scottish highlands, home of McQueen's ancestors, bringing a new spin to tartan suiting and Lady Guinevere dresses.
The punk influence, a house signature, was incorporated via chunky studded boots, black leather jackets, embellished chokers and wide belts. Worn with corseted cream lace gowns they struck the perfect balance between tough and romantic; likewise, the off-the-shoulder peasant dress featuring a ruffled hem and a black leather harness. Sheer columns with colourful embroidery were paired with chunky patchwork knits for a folkloric twist on eveningwear, which carried onto chain link dresses.
Florals are once again major news. Ruffled leather mini dresses were splashed with the motif and some gowns were almost entirely embellished with petal appliqués. For day, tartan suits came double breasted with three-quarter length jackets over boot cut trousers while cropped, flared jeans were embroidered with flowers and worn with cut-away waistcoats.