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Paris Fashion Week

Alexander McQueen SS18

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2018 Paris Fashion Week Getty

A collection that lauded the healing, regenerative properties of flowers, the virtues of the natural world with its beauty and its toughness, Spring/Summer 2018 at Alexander McQueen was, for designer Sarah Burton, a time for exploration and reformation.

The exploration came by way of the designer’s foray into the botanical world, her visit to Great Dixter, with its captivating gardens, proved something of a tipping point for the floral fabrics suturing together deconstructed garments including coats and dresses, weaving their vines across jackets, tops and bursting into bloom across gowns. Reformation evolved from a sense that things need to be preserved, repurposed and reassembled, hence asymmetric lace and chiffon dresses hinting at a storied Victorian past, but presenting as distinctly contemporary. 

A collection pushing dichotomies, there was a tougher edge to the McQueen woman, played out through tartan, all-leather looks and triple-buckle, steel-toe boots – softened by roses encased in lucite on the heels – with steampunk elements in some of the all-black tuxedo looks. Pearl charm chokers, all-the-way-up ear cuffs and chunky chain bag straps wound around the wrist as bracelets, all added to the heirloom nature of the collection, re-appropriated from something borrowed into something new. 

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