For as much as his previous season paid homage to Thatcher-era '80s punk, for Autumn/Winter 2017, Andrew Gn cast a wider net, looking to the world and native designs for his 'Global Tribal'-themed collection; but this was not a literal interpretation. Expertly executed, it unified and blended to create a new wave of striking graphics, clashing mosaics and floral motifs.
Making his play on cohesion, the collection zoned in on an often innocuous element: the sleeve. Not for its uniformity, however, but for its difference. Bishop, leg-of-mutton, fluted, flared, ruffle, cape and balloon styles in velvet, silk, lamé, chiffon, feathers, fringing and even fur, in a clash of textures, blocks and silhouettes, all opted in on impact. Early exits delivered a mainly monochrome palette with slash key-holes and cut-outs, peppered with leopard print, polka dots and swirling patterns, giving rise to the later looks, which basked in vibrancy with flashes of emerald, cobalt blue, amethyst and sunshine yellow. And for the brighter side of proceedings, an unravelling of the theme became clear as florals bloomed across the vibrant silks in sequined appliqués, culminating in a gold embellished peacock adorning a moss green velvet gown.
With shoulder-length, beaded-tassel, feather and hammered-metal disc earrings paired with geisha girl red lips and braided hair, every inch was effortlessly curated with Gn’s signature flair and precision.