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Paris Fashion Week

Céline AW17

Céline AW17 Getty

These days an atmospheric show setting says as much about a collection as the clothes themselves, a point which Philo, prone to simplicity, took on board for Autumn/Winter 2017, staging a complexly choreographed parade that, with its revolving seating (designed by Philippe Parreno) and criss-crossing models, gained Instagram posts galore: job done.

One had to work less hard to understand the exquisite craftsmanship of the clothes, which, true to Philo's style, were reimagined staples, from the oversized trench and tuxedo coat to the boxy, double-breasted suit and the oversized shirt. The colour palette was, likewise, chic in its simplicity, with beige, black and navy lifted by pops of green (divine, also, on the blankets carried by the models), orange (on a supersize cabas bag) and sky blue (on a belted trench).

There was plenty for Céline fans to lust for and pieces to attract those who like their fashion a little less plain – the printed day dresses and tunics were at once splashy and elegant, while eveningwear featured fringed hems and off-the-shoulder décolletages.