The past few seasons have seen a softening of sorts at Céline, Phoebe Philo introducing new elements into the minimalist wardrobe for which she is lauded, but never so much as to upset the balance – these are still clothes for the (seriously stylish) everywoman. Where it was embellishment last season, for Spring/Summer 2017 it’s in the designer’s use of colour: primrose yellow; spearmint green; blue – most redolent of Yves Klein in the body-splodged dresses; and pink (Philo affirming the season’s biggest colour trend).
Staged in a Dan Graham pavilion that saw models including Maggie Maurer and Saskia de Brauw come and go from every direction, Philo’s post-show statement explained: "Social interaction, fantasy and life in general are the main driving forces in my work." Certainly, these are clothes to live life in. Tailoring came oversized, with jackets boxy in the shoulder paired with cropped kick flares or turn-ups finished with chiffon inserts, while back-to-front boyfriend shirts topped pleated chiffon midi skirts. For evening, revved-up LBDs, fluid caped dresses and cut-out gowns provided ample choice, with '50s-style frame handbags adding a somewhat surprising dose of ladylike polish.