With change in the air at many of the major fashion houses, for her much-anticipated debut, Natacha Ramsay-Levi certainly had big shoes to fill at Chloé, but delivered with confidence, respectfully tipping her hat to the maison's designers past and setting the tone for today's Chloé girl.
Taking the reins from Chloé stalwart Clare Waight Keller (now at Givenchy), Ramsay-Levi, the former right hand to Nicolas Ghesquière during his tenures at both Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga, assured show-goers of her place at the Chloé table, with what she called a "mosaic" – deference to the house and all the creative icons who have passed through its doors. There were nods to Karl Lagerfeld in the painted dresses she had commissioned an artist to illustrate, each rich with unique symbolism, equestrian elements which spoke of Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo – from hardware to horse iconography adorning velvet suits – and, there was that ethereal effervescence of Waight Keller in the fluid, floaty dresses.
Reconciling this with that of her own vision for the house, there was plenty of Ramsay-Levi in the line-up, too, from tailored leather trenches and jackets to tougher mid-calf lace-up boots. And accessory favourites including the Drew took on a more robust style for the season; a clear statement that the designer means business for this new chapter at Chloé.