"Fashion that resembles the women of today." Maria Grazia Chiuri’s show notes for her debut collection as Creative Director of Christian Dior read like a mission statement outlining her aims as the first woman to helm the revered fashion house in its 70 year history. "Fashion that corresponds to [women’s] changing needs," they continued, "freed from the stereotypical categories of 'masculine/feminine', 'young/not so young', 'reason/emotion'," rhetoric that will have, no doubt, enthralled a front row that included Jennifer Lawrence, Natalie Portman and Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie.
The designer’s "boldly feminine outlook" played out in two parts, a fencing-inspired first half – think white quilted jackets and gilets, breeches and lace-up booties – giving way to a procession of floor-sweeping skirts and dresses; Valentino-esque, they were exactly what everyone secretly hoped she’d take with her and translate for Dior. Entirely novel for Chiuri, however, was bold logo branding – bralet straps, ribbon bows on shoes and the waistbands of knitted knickers read 'Christian Dior J’adior', while a T-shirt saw 'We Should All Be Feminists' (the title Adichie’s 2014 essay) printed across its chest.
As for accessories, we’d suggest that the Lady Dior will soon have some company in the brand’s bestsellers list, with a new brass logo and wide, guitar-style straps sure to prove irresistible – after all, this is the woman who brought you the Rockstud.